Showing posts with label South America. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South America. Show all posts

Friday, July 23, 2010

El Misti Volcano, Arequipa, Peru


El Misti, Arequipa, Peru - 5822m (19,101 feet)
Start of the trek up El Misti


Seeking the only shade around.


Enjoying a banana
Hiking up sand.


Sunset at base camp was beautiful.



While travelling Peru in 2005, we visited Arequipa. It is hear we decided to hike the well known volcano El Misti. The summit elevation is 5822m (19,101 feet). Because we were not traveling with a tent and were not sure how safe the local area was we found a guide to take us up the mountain, however it was a sketchy little operation that we would not recommend. In fact we ran into many other tours that said the same thing about their tour guide.

The problem is these tour guides try to make the ascent way to fast which resulted in more than 50% of the trekkers experiencing serious altitude sickness problems from headaches to gastrointestinal problems. Many hikers had to turn back due to these increasing symptoms. These tour operators wanted hikers to summit the peak in less than a day when a 2 day minimum is required, and a three day is highly recommended, which is a 25 km circuit plus climb. This requires you to tent for 2 nights (as opposed to the inefficient 1 day). The hike up is not hard, but the height gain is so fast that it does not give any time for acclimatization.

There are two main routes on the volcano. The more used Pastores route which starts nere the city of Arequipa at 3,300m and camp is made at 4,500m at Nido de Auguilas. The second route starts at Aguada Blanca route which starts at 4000m near the Aguada Blanca reservoir and base camp is made at 4800m at Monte Blanco (the name of this camp comes from the fact that it is at the same height as the summit Mont Blanc).

We started the trek at an elevation of 2380m and trekked to base camp at a height of about 4,800m. We set our tents up and then were to wake up the next morning at dark and push for the summit.

The view from base camp was pretty impressive, especially the sunset over the mountains. While at base camp we were told to give our water to our guide, which was never part of the details provided to us. We were not impressed as this left us with little water for another day to the peak and back down. When asked for more we declined as we had to look out for our own safety. The following morning before dawn we were to summit, but the group I was with had severe altitude sickness and I was thinking that this guide and trip was all too sketch for me to go any further despite having no symptoms.

Overall, I would recommend the trek, but would search for a more reputable company to trek with and to make sure it is done in a reasonable time frame.


Friday, March 5, 2010

Inca Trail to Machu Pichhu


Machu Picchu

In 2005 my husband and I traveled to Peru to hike the famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. We found a company called Peru Treks & Adventure to guide us on the Inca Trail 4 day Trek. The Trek itinerary can be found on their website, along with a map of the route and other useful information. We were very pleased with our porters and guides, they were friendly, funny and informative. They aslo showed extreme respect for the landscape, environment, and their people, supporting local orphanages and making sure to tread lightly along this sacred path.


Day 1

We flew from Ottawa to Lima (stayed at Hostal El Patio, a cute little hostal downtown Lima). Then we flew from Lima to Cuzco where we stayed at Hostal Amaru (another cute place). We were in Cuzco for a couple days where explored the local ruins, went horseback riding and visited the market in Pisac. Finally a few days later in the morning after eating srambled eggs with cheese and bread, we were picked up at our hostal by a coach bus and brought to the start of the trail head at km 82.

Sign at the start of Inca Trail Trek


Start of Trek (km 82)

The first day we hiked 12km from Cusco to Wayllabamba, enjoying the historical sites of the Inca ruins along the way along with views of the Cordillera Urubamba mountain range. You can see the snow capped peak of Mt. Veronica in the distance which stands 5860m high. The first day was rather easy allowing the group to find their hiking legs and get into a groove.

The sun was beating down on us by noon.

Day 2

On the second day, which is the hardest of all the four days, we trekked another 12km from Wayllabamba to Pacamayo. The hardest part of this day is making it up and over the highest pass of the trail which is called Abra de Huarmihuanusca or Dead Woman’s Pass at 4200m.

Being an avid and in shape hiker neither of us had trouble with this part of the trek, however there were others that were equally in shape that had a more difficult time as they were feeling the affects of the altitude. We then descended to 3600m where the porters had our tents set up and dinner started where we'd dine in a large dinner tent. These dinners were always elaborate with 3-4 course meals.

In the morning the porters would knock on your tent and bring you coffee or tea... a fantastic way to wake up.

Sleepy me drinking coffee at 5am in the tent.

Hiking up to Dead Woman's Pass

Amazing view from Dead Woman's Pass (4200m)

Day 3

The third day we trekked 15km from Pacamayo to Winay Wayna. We trekked over 2 passes this day one at an elevation of 4000m (Abra de Runkuracay) and the other 3700m. From these passes the views of the Urabamba river and the snow chapped peaks is remarkable. Additionally we came across many more Inca ruin which our guide provided us with folklore stories of the ancient world.

Can see the winding urabumba in the background.

Loved this view of the jagged peaks.

Ruin down below where the group is trekking towards.


Guide (Washington) telling a dramatic historic tale. (Marc is in blue t-shirt, hat and arms crossed).

Best toilet on the trek!

Day 4

The fourth and final day is incredibly short, only 5km from Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu. We woke up super early (4:30am) to be the first group on the trail and to get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. After seeing the sunrise over Machu Picchu and taking photos of the ruins, we were free to spend the day at Machu Picchu learning about the ruins and the culture of the Incas. We then walked down to the little town of Aguas Caliente, where the group met for pizza and beer.


Machu Picchu at sunrise.


The group

Enjoying Pizza and Beer at a local pizza parlor in Aguas Caliente.

There are local hot springs near by, but the day was hot enough that we preferred to cool off with beer and chat with the group about our trek.