MBT Stage 3: Croix du Bonhomme to Refugio Elisabetta

Last night it apparently stormed, but exhaustion allowed me to sleep right through it all. We awoke to the clouds hovering in the valley and the mountain peaks poking through. Despite the cloudiness we were pleased that the sky never opened up anymore than to allow a few drops of rain.

In addition, after being burnt for the first two days cloud cover was a welcome change. Before heading out we slurped down large sums of coffee and ate homemade bread with either honey or nutella spread. Then we set out for a 16 km hike into Italy and towards Refuge Elisabetta.

Mt. Pourri at 7am, the clouds were lingering in the valley, providing an mystical atmosphere.

I sadly left the Croix du Bonhomme’s picturesque seclusion in the midst of the Alps, but knew I would soon see more intense scenery as today we’d get closer to glaciers. Once we reached the Col des Fours the highest point of the trek at 8743’ (35 minutes from the refuge) we began a long descent down towards the Ville des Glaciers. It is at this point where the Glaciers of the Glaciers came into sight.

Marc at Tete Nords des Fours


Villes des Glaciers


At the Ville des Glaciers I noticed a small sign stating ‘Vente Fromage et Beurre’ posted outside of the farmhouse. I poked my head into the farm door where I saw a farmer sporting large green rubber boots stoking a fire under a gigantic pot of what I could only conclude to be cheese in the making. I asked him, in French of course, if he sold cheese. After he finished his fire stoking he brought me into his cheese cellar where he cut a large wedge of old Beaufort cheese for me (1 lbs for only 5€). It was an amazing bold tasting cheese that we enjoyed eating for the next two days of our hike.

Cheese Cellar

Stoking the fire.

We continued on past Refuge Les Mottets and began a gradual ascent up towards the Col de La Seigne at 8252’ towards the Mont Blanc Massif and the French-Italian Border. The backdrop as we approached the Col de La Seigne was immense and the colors of the glacier became more prominent with whites, blues and red hues.

We stopped for lunch near a water fall to enjoy our Beaufort cheese, cherry tomatoes, homemade bread, chorizo sausage and wine. We sat there and relaxed while enjoying the views.

Beaufort cheese, crackers, homemade bread, tomatoes, chorizo sausage and red wine.

Cloud cover started to get more dramatic as we approached the Col de la Seigne making for a gloomy yet mystical sort of feeling. At the Col de la Seigne unfortunately the cloud cover was a bit too intense to see the supposedly outstanding view in all directions.

Hiking towards Col de la Seigne.

We then descended into Italy’s Val Veni towards our final destination Refugio Elisabetta at an elevation of 7544’ (2195m).

The official 'TMB' sign of the trail.

Rifugio Elisabetta

Refugio Elisabetta is an old stone refuge which lies less than 90 min below the Col de la Seigne on the Italian side of the Alps. The backdrop of Elisabetta is the Glacier d’Estellette and Glacier de la Lee Blanche and the view from the covered porch is the Vallon de la Lee Blanche leading into Courmayeur.

The refuge was welcoming and cozy. After a very quick shower in the coin operated facilities, we ordered some large pints of Birra Morretti and reviewed what we’d completed in Stage III and prepped for Stage IV.

All the while we could smell the delicious food being prepared in the kitchen. Dinner was delicious and hearty consisting of bean soup, pork tenderloin, mashed potatoes, mixed salad, bread, peaches and a nice liter of red wine. We were pleased when the trekkers we dined with also indulged in some delicious red wine. Conversation about the trek and travel was shared between us and many of the other trekkers including a funny Scottish couple and trekkers from Germany, South Africa, France and Italy.

Stage III Summary

Route: Alternative
Total Hours: ~ 6hrs
Total Kilometers: 16-18km
Accommodations: Refuge Elisabetta
Cost: 88€ (for 2 demi-pension)
Dinner: Bean Soup, Homemade Bread

Pork Tenderloin, Mashed Potatoes, Mixed Salad,

Red wine (Chianti).
Breakfast: Coffee, Bread with nutella/honey/jam and cereal.

MBT Stage 2: Les Contamines to Bonhomme de la Croix

Day 2 of the trek would have us trekking from Les Contamines to our first refuge Croix de la Bonhomme. We woke up, had a bowl of cereal and caught the free local bus to the trail head at Notre Dame de la Gorge.

The start of the trail is a gradual ascent up slate rock which later turns into gravel road, which then turns into dirt foot path that winds its way through some of the most spectacular scenery.

Great view of the trail we just hiked up.The sun was cooking our shoulders/arms and would get worse.

We continued on the trail passed a pile of boulders and rocks placed to
commemorate a hiker who parished in a storm in 2005.

Here we met a Scottish couple that were kind enough to take our photo and lend us some much needed sunscreen.

The scenery just gets more spectacular with different shades of blues, greens, whites, and greys.

We enjoyed some more chorizo, tomatoes, apple, cheese and a hint of wine we hiked up in our platypus.

We continued up this path towards Col du Bonhomme (2329m) and which is a perfect place for lunch. There was a very angry sheep there that was chasing all the hikers and making an awful sound, it was humorous. We relaxed here for a long time, feeling the sun on our faces, peering out at the colorful mountains and checking out the wooden bivouac shelter.

Although I did not want to give up this spectacular view we hiked over the Col de la Croix de la Bonhomme in anticipation of the afternoon scenery and the our first refuge of the hike.

Just as were coming over a ridge I saw what appeared to be a wooden building down below surrounded by mountains.

Refuge Bonhomme de la Croix

Trekking down the refuge, with a sweet sweet backdrop!

The stone part is the only part that survived WW II invasion.

Relaxing on the grounds around the refuge.

The view from the refuge.

Enjoying some wine after a long day trekking.

Uber Relaxed!

The owner and chef with the wicked fro.

We anxiously waited for 7pm for dinner to be served.

Sunsetting over Mt. Pourri (3779m)

- again the sweet sweet view from the refuge.

Summary of Stage II

Route: Alternative
Total Hours: 7 hours
Total Kilometers: 18km
Height Gain: 1579m (Col des Fours)
Height Loss: 929m
Accommodations: Refuge Croix du Bonhomme
Cost: 88€ for 2 adults demi-pension

(i.e. bed, dinner, breakfast for 2).
Meal: Dinner was soup and homemade bread;

pasta in a white cream sauce;

delicious stewed beef with carrots;

a massive cheese platter for dessert

with large homemade biscotti

and a ½ Litre of red wine.

*If carrying your own food the refuge has a room with a couple burners to boil water and cook.

MBT Stage I - Chamonix to Les Contamines

Chamonix is surrounded by the Mont Blanc Massif.

Marc enjoying his first, but certainly not last, panini in Chamonix, France.

Best Microbrew Pub in town - Microbrasserie de Chamonix or MBC.

Even better it is run by Canadians.

Marc enjoying a nice pint and I a glass of red wine.

Large portion of burger with rockfort cheese, fries and coleslaw.

Veggie burger was massive with roasted eggplant, peppers, onions, zucchini, chickpea spread, lettuce, cheese and tomato. Served with salad and coleslaw. Needless to say I was full after, but man was it delicious. Good fuel for the hike the following day.

View of Chamonix in the morning before the hike. Clear skies.

Marc walking to find us some breakfast in Chamonix. We decided to hop on the bus from Chamonix to Les Houches and find a bakery there.

Bakery in Les Houches directly across from the telepherique du Bellevue. We bought a baguette with jambon, beurre and cornichons (ham, butter and cheese on a baguette). The fresh bread was so delicious. We ate it on the way up the telepherique du Bellevue, after shooting back an espresso at the cafe next to the Bakery.

Telepherique du Bellevue.

Because we decided on trekking the alternative route versus the main route, we took the telepherique du Bellevue, which brought us from about 1100ft to 1645ft and cut 2½ hours off our trek. We choose the alternative route as the views were supposedly much more spectacular than the main route and it did not disappoint. Considering the alternative route for Stage 1 is 18km and about 8 hrs of hiking (not including stoppage time) with a height gain of 1478m and loss of 1318m, we thought that taking the telepherique was a good way not to burn ourselves out on the first day.




The telepherique brought us to the Col de Voza. From here we trekked the alternative route towards Les Contamines. This route took us over a cable bridge and through an open field full of wild blueberries, where we could see the Glacier de Bionnassay in the backdrop.



Signs pointing us in all directions, we choose the alternative route to get the highest elevation possible, and the better views.

Suspension bridge.

Field of wild blueberries.

Making sure we take the right route (thank you Kev Reynolds). The path continued gradually upward towards the Col de Tricot at which point you can see the Refuge de Miage in the valley below.

Amazing view of the Mont Blanc....very bright out.

Stopped for lunch on the trek down to Miage. Cheese, crackers, cherry tomatoes, chorizo sausage....this would prove to be lunch for many days.

At Miage we were able to fill up your platypus with ice cold refreshing glacier water coming out of an old wooden barrel.

Hotel Mont Joly, Les Contamines

After 6 ½ hours and 16km of hiking we arrived in Les Contamines and found our way to our B&B - Mont Joly. Nice place good location, if coming from main route, but if taking alternative route, like we did, try to find lodging closer to the start of Stage II. We were able to take theh free local bus to the start of the trail head. In addition, there are cheaper places to stay, but if money not a concern, this place is cute, nice hosts, and decently priced.

Knowing that the next two nights of our trek would have us high in the Alps with no access to grocery stores, we stocked up on lunch and snack foods from the Huit a Huit in town.

Normally 7pm would be a perfect time to dine, but after a long day of hiking we were desperate to eat something substantial. Considering none of the restaurants serve dinner until 7pm, we went to a boulangerie where we bought a small pizza and baguette with sliced egg, tomato, cucumber, lettuce, pesto and cheese. We picked up some beer and wine from the Huit a Huit and sat in the park enjoying a picnic dinner.

Stage I - Summary

Route: Alternative
Total hours: 6 hours (if take telepherique and 8 hours if not)
Total Kilometers: 16km
Total Elevation Gain: 4848’
Total Elevation Loss: 1318’
Accommodations: Mont Joly

Cost: 61 € for 2 people for bed and breakfast
Meal: Pizza and Baguette Sandwich from Boulangerie
Grocery Store: Huit a Huit